Indianguide Pantoon Boat Tour is a fun way to see North Channel hideaways
by Isobel Harry
On yet another magnificent Manitoulin morning, it’s time to board the Indianguide Pontoon Boat Tour, with captain Gordie Odjig at the helm, from Prairie Point on the Wikwemikong Unceded Indian Reserve to Killarney on the North shore of Lake Huron. Gordie introduces his “skipper,” Leanne Mishibinijima, and guests Glenn and Judy Black from Providence Bay, who are taking a cruise to celebrate the anniversary of their wedding that took place on this very day 17 years ago.
Today, Gordie has a plan for his guests, to share the little-known spots that he discovered in his childhood; so often boaters speed by the many islands, dazzlingly beautiful with their limestone and quartzite outcrops and forests of cedar, and miss the delightful surprises within.
We anchor in a sheltered spot near the entrance of the Lansdowne Channel called Hole in the Wall, where aboriginal fishermen would pull in when the water was too rough. “Sometimes,” says Gordie, “they would have to wait out a storm for several days, so they built a pit here for ice, to keep the fish fresh until they could move out again.” We trek a short distance to see the pit, lined with cedar rails, a long unused but fascinating relic of the past. We hike up glittering rounded quartzite hills to admire the view of the North Channel and the LaCloche Mountains to the east, picking wild blueberries as we go.
Further up the Channel, Gordie pulls into a shallow bay; he draws our attention to the low stone wall about two feet high that runs from one end of the bay to other, and a set of wide stone steps that might have served to unload boats and passengers in the past. “The elders say that the people came here to trade fish and fur, in exchange for oats, barley and sugar,” Gordie says as we disembark to roam the historic puzzle. There is no known name nor date for it, although there were trading posts in this region as early as the 1690s.
Next stop on the Mission of the Intrepid Explorers: Snug Harbour, a quiet horseshoe-shaped bay with several sailboats at anchor. “There’s a lake here on the island,” Gordie says “called Devil’s Lake, because of its mystery. It’s higher in altitude than the Great Lakes.” We walk up paths spongy with loam and redolent of cedar to arrive at the prettiest mystery of the tour, a lake so calm and clear, and full of fish they say, that we all stand reverently on the bank, as in a church. This is where officials of some ministry or other made an imprint of a large footprint years ago that was likened to that of the legendary Sasquatch. Gordie tells us, “The elders say the footprint belongs to the keeper of the stories, and that he should be left alone.” This advice has been followed for many years, for nothing but the fish stir at Devil’s Lake, and we tiptoe back down to the boat on a thick carpet of pine needles.
“Okay, Killarney’s next!” Gordie calls out. The explorers are hungry. After all the walking, admiring and puzzling, we’re looking forward to the final stop: Herbert’s Fish and Chips, a legend in its own right with tourists flocking from far and wide. We motor leisurely into the narrow channel, brilliant white buildings fronted by docks where shiny yachts and boats of all description are moored; there is a bustling air to the village, people coming and going and lining up at the fish stand. We pick up blueberries and pickles at a market stand, and visit the old general store with its atmosphere and intact furnishings of days gone by. The fish and chips are “as advertised,” quickly wolfed down as Gordie shares more memories of the area. At the water’s edge, we watch as five otters play, falling into the water and scrambling out again, deep brown fur smooth and slick.
Gordie has one more revelation for us in Portage Cove off Killarney Bay. As he slowly enters the cove, high cliffs come into view as he cautions us to watch them carefully. Suddenly, as if by magic, a human head materializes before our eyes! “We call this Indian Head,” Gordie says. “Can you see it? Can you see the smile?” We see it! He seems as delighted as we are as he inches the boat forward and back so the striking likeness can come into focus for us time and again. “It’s Nanabush, the Trickster, the brother of another stone outcrop like this in Sagamok. This is the ‘good one’, the one who helps people.”
We cruise back toward the Wikwemikong water tower, the marker that guides the return journey; bald eagles soar, one perches on a flat rock in the lake, seeming to float there; ducklings paddle furiously at our approach. The sun glints on the waves, pebbly beaches stretch for miles, haze shrouds the farthest islands in soft light. “It was Jimmy Manitowabi who got me to come back to touring,” says Gordie, “we used to come out here as kids. The elders would tell us stories. When I come out here now, I remember those times.”
Le Grand Héron is a Grand addition to Manitoulin
by Shelley Pearen
Amazing, fantastic, superb, picturesque, incredible, and extraordinary! These are just a few of the comments I overheard travellers using to describe a recent voyage on Le Grand Héron.
I highly recommend a Le Grand Héron excursion to all Expositor readers, both Island residents and visitors. In fact I suggest everyone grab their tablet or computer or phone and book a trip on the North Channel Cruise Line’s Le Grand Héron immediately because I predict the trips to the Benjamin Islands, Baie Fine Fjord, Killarney, and the Sunset Cruises will quickly sell out.
Expositor readers probably know me as one of the Manitoulin Expositor’s history specialists. But I’ve been exploring Manitoulin for more than half a century as well as researching the Island’s history. A recent family excursion on the “Heron” prompted me to share my experience.
I admit that I have been awaiting the launch of Le Grand Héron since reading about it in the Expositor last fall. Chris Blodgett, the owner of the North Channel Cruise Line, purchased the vessel in 2013 and brought it here from the Magdalen Islands (Îles de la Madeleine) in the Gulf of Saint Lawrence. The 75-foot long, tri-hull ship was refurbished over the winter. I was expecting a successful venture from Mr. Blodgett, and Le Grand Héron exceeded my expectations.
Proprietor Chris Blodgett, whose Discovery Yacht Charters has a great international reputation, is serving as first officer and machinery operator. He and his gregarious assistants are always nearby seeing to excursionists questions and comfort. Le Grand Héron’s captain is John Gillespie, a seasonal resident of the Bay of Islands with Manitoulin roots. John’s Gillespie ancestors homesteaded in Gore Bay in the 1880s. Captain Gillespie handles the “Heron” with proficiency and wisdom. In fact so proficiently that no beverages were spilt and all passengers enjoyed smooth sailing.
We chose the Killarney excursion. My mother, the former Jeanne Sims of Little Current, had not visited Killarney since her childhood and was excited to revisit the area. Her grandfather Tom Sims had operated a series of passenger boats in the early 20th century delivering passengers, mail, furniture, cattle and cars to eastern Manitoulin ports from the North Shore. In fact on summer weekends his ships including the Bon Ami and Iroquois took local residents on outings similar to Le Grand Héron’s destinations. I could say the “Heron” is recreating some of Manitoulin’s most popular and memorable activities – group travel on the water to picturesque destinations.
Le Grand Héron sails to Killarney on Wednesdays this summer. This is an all day excursion that boards at 9:30 am and returns to the dock in Little Current about 6 pm. Cruisers travel through the historic swing bridge, past Strawberry Lighthouse, Heywood Island, Partridge Island, and up the Lansdowne Channel past Centre Island, Badgeley Island and George Island to Killarney. Each island is unique – some heavily forested, some sparsely treed, and some bare granite. The breathtaking La Cloche mountains provide a continuous backdrop.
There is a two hour stopover in Killarney where you can stroll the village, taste some of the world famous Herbert Fisheries fish and chips or visit the recently updated Sportsman Lodge and the historic Killarney Mountain Lodge. As we had enjoyed the generous buffet lunch on board, our party of four shared a large order of fish and chips, just for the fun of it. Then we wandered through the village.
Back on board you travel roughly the same route back though you view the scenery from a different angle and with late afternoon lighting. A final trip through the swing bridge completed the cruise memorably.
Killarney, originally Shebahonaning (narrow channel), like Manitoulin has been the home of the Anishinaabeg for thousands of years. About 1820 the Anishinaabeg welcomed fur trader Etienne Augustin de la Morandière who settled here to take advantage of its location on the fur trade route. In the mid 19th century, prior to the 1862 Manitoulin treaty, Killarney was the primary port serving Manitoulin and the North Shore. It was a bustling fishing centre for decades and remained accessible only by water until 1962 when Highway 637 opened. Killarney Provincial Park was established in 1964 and is famous for its unspoiled scenery that has inspired many artists including members of Canada’s Group of Seven.
The Benjamin Islands and Baie Finn Fjord excursions are on alternate Sundays, boarding at 10:30 am and returning to Little Current approximately 6 hours later.
The 40 mile trip to the Benjamin Islands is another exceptional cruise. Heading west and north out of Little Current to the smooth pink granite Benjamins you pass dozens of photo-worthy islands. I believe that everyone should make a visit to the unique Benjamin Islands at least once in their lifetime. For history buffs like myself, the route to the Benjamins follows the traditional early 20th century route of the passenger/cargo steamboats travelling between Little Current and Cutler, the train station on the North Shore. The Benjamin Islands are said to be named for a light keeper at the Clapperton Island lighthouse. I predict every passenger will return with memorable photographs of the Benjamins.The Benjamin sailings are on August 10, 24 and September 7.
Baie Fine Fjord also boards at 10:30 on alternate Sundays and returns to the dock about 6 hours later. This 40 mile sail past rugged shores heads to the world renowned fjord in Killarney Provincial Park. Baie Fine has been described as one of the largest freshwater fjords in the world, the only non-oceanic fjord in the world and some even say the only true inland fjord in the world because it can be reached by an ocean vessel. To reach the fjord you will travel through the historic swing bridge, past La Cloche and Strawberry Islands, through Frazer Bay, past McGregor and Frazer Points and into the fjord. Baie Finn sailings are on July 27, August 17 and 31.
The Sunset Cruise operates on Saturday evenings and boards in Little Current at 7:30 pm, departs at 8 pm, and returns to the dock about 2 hours later. This cruise takes travellers several miles out into the North Channel where as the name suggests cruisers will enjoy a spectacular Manitoulin sunset. Sunset cruises depart July 26, August 2, 9, 16, 23 and 30.
‘Beach Party Monday’ cruises depart Little Current at 11 am and return about 6 pm. Le Grand Héron anchors in shallow water letting passengers swim or relax on deck or on shore.
The voyages to Killarney, the Benjamin Islands and Baie Fine Fjord all include a delicious buffet lunch with platters of sliced meats, cheeses, vegetables, and fruit. Beverages, non-alcoholic and alcoholic, are available for purchase.
Cruises range in price from $39 (Sunset) to $95 (Killarney, Baie Fine and the Benjamins). I can only speak for the Killarney outing but $95 for a 9 hour excursion with a professional crew through world class scenery while enjoying a generous buffet is excellent value.
Always the historian, I can’t resist providing a few more historical facts. Georgian Bay was called Lake Manitoulin by Captain William Fitz William Owen who charted the area in 1815, but it was declared to be part of Lake Huron and named for King George IV by Captain Henry Wolsey Bayfield in his survey conducted from 1819 to 1822. The survey took much longer than the other great lakes because of number of islands and bays in Lake Huron. Bayfield reported that on the north shore they had only surveyed “45 Miles of coast in 10 weeks” but “in that distance we have ascertained the Shape, size and situation of upwards of 6,000 Islands, Flats and Rocks.” I suggest you hop aboard the “Heron” and see how many islands you can spot.
For more information about tours or to book your trip, visit www.ncclinc.com or call (705) 368-3744; 1-800-268-8222.
Shelley Pearen is the author of The Great Manitoulin Island Treaty of 1862, and Exploring Manitoulin, as well as a regular contributor to the Manitoulin Expositor.
Choose from among many cruising options while on Manitoulin:
Indianguide Pontoon Boat Tours, Wikwemikong Unceded Indian Reserve: Sightseeing tours for four to seven people, Wiky Bay, Killarney, Prairie Point; several options from picnics to storytelling and intriguing destinations, depending on interests; 2-6 hrs/$20-40/per person. Contact Gordie Odjig, tel: 705-859-2955; email: indianguide49er@yahoo.ca; www.gordiesbeach.com
Canadian Yacht Charters, Gore Bay: Bareboat luxury yacht and trawler charters; skippered yachts, day sails, sailing and cruising school based on availability. Marine store; nautical charts; kayak, inflatable paddle board and bicycle rentals. For rates, contact Ken Blodgett and Pam McLaughlin Blodgett, 1-800-565-0022; email: info@cycnorth.com; www.cycnorth.com
Discovery Yacht Charters, Little Current: Bareboat or captained luxury yacht charters. Daily sailing adventures for single or multiple groups to the Benjamin Islands or Baie Fine; 7-10 hrs/$120-$150/per person/minimum 6 persons or equivalent fee; snacks, lunch included. Morning, afternoon or sunset cruises, 3-4 hrs/$50/per person/minimum 6 persons or equivalent fee. Kayak and canoe rentals. Tel: 705-368-3744; toll-free 1-800-268-8222; email: sail@discoveryyachtcharters.com; www.discoveryyachtcharters.com
Green Boat Charters, Little Current: Sightseeing tours to Killarney, Baie Fine, Benjamin Islands can include hike, swim, bring own picnic; 3 1/2 hours/4 persons/$350 + HST; 6 persons/+$20 per additional person; kids under 10/free. Day charters: can haul 4 kayaks/prearrange shore lunch; 4 persons minimum/$125 + HST/per person. Other tours, e.g. lighthouse tour, can be customized. Fishing charters: 4 persons only/$350/3 1/2 hrs; $475/5 hrs. Contact Gary Green, tel: 705-368-2538; email: greenfish@sympatico.ca
North Channel Cruise Line, Little Current: boat tours from the downtown docks to the Benjamin Islands, Baie Fine on alternate Sundays, Killarney on Wednesdays/$95; Saturday sunset cocktail cruise/$39. Private event charters, weddings, receptions, corporate meetings. Licensed onboard pub; lunch, snacks. Tel: 705-368-3744; www.ncclinc.com
Wasse-Giizhik Tours and Accommodations, Wikwemikong Unceded Indian Reserve: boat tours in the Manitoulin and Killarney region on the traditional canoe routes of the Anishinaabek. Also guided fishing adventures and charters. For rates, contact Luke Wasse-Giizhik, 705-562-5852; email: luke@wasstours.ca; www.wasstours.com.
